Emilio Moro Finca Resalso 2008

Over the past few weeks, I have been on a Spanish wine hunt.  I have even gone back to some of my favorites, including the Tinto Figuero 15 (tasting posted February 25, 2010) .   I also just found in CT the Bodegas Ondarre Rioja Reserve 2004 which until now could only find in Switzerland (tasting posted July 31, 2009).  Can't wait to pop that cork.  The other night while having pizza, I tried the Finca Resalso 2008.  The Resalso is from the Leon region of Spain where the tempranillo grape is actually known as Tinto Fino. This dark garnet colored wine made from 100% tempranillo grapes started off with a big powerful aroma of black fruit that quickly changed to cowhide and star anise.  The 2008 had been aged for 4 months in French Oak barrels but the nose led you to believe a lot longer.  I also thought there was an abundance of alcohol on the nose.  On the palate, this medium bodied wine had plenty of red and black juicy berries along with dark chocolate, and again, a slightly elevated alcohol taste and oakiness.  The 2008 has a 13.5% alcohol content.  The earthiness that you sometimes find in the tempranillo wines was completely lost in this one.   I actually went back a day later to try it again but it did not get any better.  There was also a noticeable increase in acidity and a bitter cherry taste on the back end. The sales clerk at the store said he hadn't tried it so I was on my own.  The Wine Advocate rated this 90 points.  Maybe I had a bad bottle but I think they missed the boat on this one.  The Resalso  2008 at $13 or the Ondarre Reserve 2004 at $11 is a no brainer.   This would definitely be a pass next time.

Tinto Figuero

This past week, I had the opportunity to dine with Antonio Garcia Figuero and J. Felipe Martin Cabezon from Vinedos y Bodegas Garcia Figuero.  The dinner was held at the Solera restaurant in NYC which is a Spanish tapas restaurant. Jose Maria Garcia and Milagros Figuero founded this family winery in 2001, although grape growing had been in the family for several generations. The day to day operations are handled by their three children and a son-in-law, but Jose still manages to keep his fingers in the business he loves. The Bodegas Garcia Figuero is located approximately 90 miles north of Madrid along the Deuro River in the Ribera del Duero region of Spain. Tempranillo is the most popular grape grown in this region and is widely known as the backbone to Rioja wines.  Rioja is a city and region just northeast of Ribera del Duero.

During this dinner, we tasted four fabulous wines that are all 100% Tempranillo and all have been harvested from their Estate. As Felipe explained, they only produce a small amount of wines so their goal is to maintain consistency and quality. In fact, due to the poor weather conditions in 2007, they only produced the Tinto Figuero 4.  Interestingly, instead of labeling them as Roble, Crianza and Reserva, they identify them as 4, 12, 15 and the top wine Noble.  Each of these numbers actually refer to the amount of months the wine was barreled.

I originally tasted the 2006 Tinto Figuero 4 while visiting my wife's family in Switzerland.  According to Felipe, Switzerland is one of their top selling markets. I was looking forward to this evening to try their other wines. My 2006 tasting was posted on August 14, 2009.

Tinto Figuero 4 (Roble) 2007 - this is their entry level wine, but by no means lacking of quality. It has a wonderful aroma of fresh raspberries and cranberries which followed over to the palate along with some black berries and licorice and a hint of the new oak and some earthiness. The grapes for this vintage comes from their younger vines of 10-20 years old. The acidity was minimal and the tannins were very smooth. The wine was aged for four months in new oak barrels, 85% American oak and 15% French oak. Prior to release, it is bottle aged for an additional four months. Less than 6,000 cases of the Tinto Figuero 4 were produced. This is a very nice wine, although I would choose the 2006 over the 2007. It retails for $20. This was served with several tapas and appetizers.

Tinto Figuero 12 (Crianza) 2005 - This deep ruby colored wine was the next step up in terms of structure and flavors. Once again the nose was full of berries, that carried over to the palate along with a handful of blueberries and a slight bit more oakiness. This time, the tannins were a little more chewy. The grapes for the "12" comes from 20-40 year old vines and were aged for 12 months in two-plus year old barrels (70% American and 30% French). It is then bottled aged for 2 additional years before being released for purchase. This wine really opened up to a delicious wine after about 1 hour. Be sure to decant the Tinto Figuero 12. It retails for $29. This was a perfect match for my pork tenderloin. I would also serve this with lamb chops, grilled chicken or a seafood paelle.

Tinto Figuero 15 (Reserva) 2004. The 2004 vintage according to Antonio was one of the best. And after having a glass of this vintage, I would agree. As with the last two wines, the vines are getting older. The grapes for the "15" came from vines more than 50 years old. The wine is aged for 15 months in American (90%) and French (10%) oak and then bottle aged for an additional 21 months prior to being released. This cherry-red wine had one of the best aromas that I have come across in a long time. The flavors were just as incredible. The black fruit flavors were well complimented by some cedar and a slight spiciness. Acidity was balanced and the tannins were perfectly structured. I think I can still taste the flavors after 2 days. This is an outstanding wine that retails for $54. Pair this with any hearty meat or stews. Just over 8,000 cases of the 2004 Tinto Figuero 15 were produced.

Tinto Figuero Noble 2004 - After the Tinto Figuero 15, I asked how could they take it up one more notch. Well, they did. This is the only label that did not refer to the length of barreling. However, the Noble was aged in barrels for 21 months, the first 15 in American oak and the last 6 months in French (Allier, Troncais, Romanian, Russian) oak. Then it is bottle aged for an additional 15 months prior to release. The nose opens with plenty of dark jammy fruit followed by some cigar and cedar notes and then some minty chocolate on the back end. The flavors mirrored the aromas along with some hearty oak. This was decanted for 3 hours prior to dinner and it was still opening up. If you aren't home during the day to open it, decant it before leaving for work in the morning. This is a very young wine that needs at least another 5 years of aging, if not another 10 years if you can wait. With a price tag of $130, this is a wine for a special occasion, like your wife's birthday. With slightly more than 1,100 cases produced, this might be hard to find.

It is not very often, maybe never, that you walk away from a tasting and say that every wine was delicious. I have to say, this is one of those times. Each glass just kept getting better. Although all four wines were made from 100% Tempranillo grapes from the same Estate, they each had some similarities, yet also their unique qualities. Part of this is due to the vintage, the amount of time exposed to oak and the age of the vines. Do yourself a favor and pick up some Tinto Figuero. You won't be disappointed.

Bodegas Ondarre Rioja Reserva 2002

Last night my wife made an Entrecote au Thyme which is a beef tenderloin with some cracked pepper along with a sauce made from port, thyme, beef broth, shallots and some other ingredients. It was one of the most tender pieces of beef I can remember eating and the sauce was delicious. You could literally cut the meat with a butter knife. While I was out shopping, I ran across a Rioja which up until now I could only find in Switzerland - the Ondarre Rioja Reserva. I previously posted the 2004 vintage (EXCELLENT WINE) on 7/31/09. This meal could have been paired with many different wines but I wanted a medium bodied wine that would work with the tender meat and the sauce. This garnet colored Rioja is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha and Mazuelo. When I first opened the 2002, I thought the nose was lacking but over the next half-hour, it went from a subtle berry aroma to glass of juicy fruits. The lush aromas of plums, raisins and cherries were followed by some light cedar and a little bit of spices. On the palate, there were wonderful layers of cherries, raspberries and cranberries along with a small amount of oak/vanilla and light pepper. It is a relatively dry wine with velvety smooth tannins and a nice finish. I will definitely be picking up alot more of the this vintage for the cellar. This will still drink well for the next 2-3 years. Decanter Magazine gave it their top rating of 5 stars and Robert Parker gave it a 92 point rating. Unfortunately, Wine Spectator rated the Ondarre Rioja Reserva 2002 only 85 points. They really missed the boat on this one. They should try another bottle and repost their score. For $17, this is a great buy.  However, I still would pick the 2004 vintage over the 2002.

Basa Rueda Blanco 2007

This is another very nice, easy drinking white wine from the Rueda appellation in northwest Spain. It is a blend of 50% verdejo, 40% viura and 10% sauvignon blanc, which is very similar to the Las Brias (previously posted) but the Basa has less sauvignon blanc. This wine has a very light, pale yellow hue with a nice big nose of grapefruits, white peaches, lime and a juicy mango. You might also notice the bouquet of tall grass and wild flowers, which brought back memories from our hike in Aspen, CO. On the palate, the citrus and peaches were dominate along with a tartness of a granny smith apple followed by a slight spiciness of white pepper and a touch of stone/gravel. The acidity was lacking though and had a short finish. Overall, it is a fairly well structured wine with a nice light body and enjoyable flavors. This wine must be kept cold. It would go with many appetizers or as an aperitif. Robert Parker rated the Basa 88 points and the Wine Enthusiast rated it 89 points. I think they are right on for this one. The 2007 Basa retails for about $10.

Sierra De Viento Tempranillo and Garnacha

Last week, I was invited to a tasting of two wines produced by Bodegas San Valero, a cooperative located in north-east Spain in the province of Zaragoza. This cooperative was established in 1944 with 60 vine growers from the Carinena region. Today, there are over 700 members with over 3,500 hectares (8,650 acres) of vineyards.

The first wine we tasted was the 2008 Sierra de Viento Tempranillo. The grapes for this 100% tempranillo wine have made picked from 20-25 year old vines. This unoaked wine has a crimson color with an intense aroma of fresh red fruit and some floral notes. On the palate, it was fruitier than most other tempranillo's that I have tasted. In fact, it was too much. Although the flavors lasted for a while, the back end was a sour cherry flavor that didn't entice me to drink more.

Next up was the 2007 Sierra de Viento Garnacha Old Vine which was produced from grapes harvested from 30+ year old vines. This garnet colord wine was fermented in new French oak barriques for 3 months and then transferred to American oak barriques for 5 months. Following this, it is aged in the bottle for an additional 12 to 15 months. This was an interesting wine. Upon the inital opening and pouring, it had a big oak and vanilla aroma. But, within 5 to 10 minutes, this vanilla aroma mellowed and I started picking up more dried fruits, some toast and tobacco. The flavors were more blackberry and currant along with some oakiness. The Garnacha had mild acidity, but did have some chewy tannins.

Overall, neither of these wines were that impressive. As of now, the cooperative has not chosen an importer or distributor for these wines. When they do finally hit the US shelves, they will likely retail for $10-$11. Even with these prices, I think they will be difficult to sell.

Fenicio Alicante 2008

This dark red, medium-bodied wine comes from the Alicante region in south eastern Spain along the Meditteranean Sea. Alicante is a region as well as a grape, although this wine is made from 100% Tempranillo, the same grape used to make wonderful Riojas. The winemaker described this un-oaked wine as earthy with some licorice flavors. Unfortunately, I picked up more old plum and leather with an unusual spice on the backend. The tannins were fairly mild and the finish was short. Overall, we were both disappointed with this wine. As the the wine opened, it actually got worse instead of better. I would pass on this next time. It retails for $11.

Cantos Rodados Verdejo 2008

Spain just keeps putting out fantastic wines. Cantos Rodados, which means river stones (see label) in English, is made from 25 year old Verdejo vines that are grown on the banks of the Duero River in Northern Spain. This is a dry and cool area where the stones actually heat up during the day and then disperse the heat at night to the vines when the air temperatures have dropped. Wine drinkers sometimes confuse this pale yellow medium-bodied wine to Sauvignon Blanc. It has similar tropical fruit aromas, but is more flowery. The tropical fruit follows on to the palate with some lemon and peach flavors along some herbs. This is a wine that you really pick up the chalky, dusty flavors from the terroir. The true Spanish qualities are brought out in this Verdejo. The acidity was relatively high but was well covered with the tropical flavors. This is a great wine to serve with medium flavored cheeses, fish, seafood and some white meats. It would go really well with a vegetable side dish of asparagus, brussel sprouts or kale. You could serve it with a salad but would need to be careful that the salad dressing acidity and the wine acidity don't combat one another. For $10, this is a real bargain.

Marques de Caceres Rioja Crianza 2005

I previously posted the 2003 Crianza and was hoping for similar results. Although it was the same blend (85% Tempranillo and 15% Granacha Tinta and Graciano), it unfortunately didn't live up to the 2003. It had some subtle black and red berry aromas but on the palate the berries were not very exciting. It was very light bodied with some cherry and cranberry flavors. Although it was aged in both French and American oak, there was little oakiness to be smelled or tasted. The body and spiciness found in the 2003 did not exist in the 2005. The finish was very limited and left a bitter after-taste. The tannins were soft. We were both down on the 2005. There are much better Rioja's on the market.   Wine Spectator rated this 87.  This is a very generous rating.  The 2005 Crianza retails for about $14.

Naia Verdejo 2007

This is another very nice white wine produced by the Bodegas Naia in Rueda Spain. I previously posted the Las Brisas by Naia. This golden colored 100% Verdejo is made from some of the oldest non-grafted vines at 90+ years. The majority of the grapes come from 25+ year old vines. The Verdejo is an aromatic wine with plenty of apricot, lemon and peach aromas along with wonderful spring flowers. The palate is very crisp and refreshing with grapefruit, lime, green apple, lemon and some minerality from gravel located throughout the vineyard. There is nice acidity on the finish which will make this a wine to pair with many foods. There is always the shellfish and seafood but would also go well with sushi or California rolls. You could pair this with chicken, pork or even a salad. This is a $12 wine worth trying. Wine Enthusiast gave this an 88 point rating and I would agree.

Bodegas Palacio Glorioso Reserva 2003

Another wine I tasted at the Distributor's Portfolio Tasting last week was a Rioja Reserve by Bodegas Palacio. I tried four of the wines from this Spanish winery and the one that stood out was the Glorioso Reserva 2003. This Rioja is made from 100% tempranillo grapes and has been aged in new French oak barrels for 24 months. This bright red Rioja starts off with aromas of currants, cherries, and raspberries along with some vanilla and oak. The oak is well balanced with the juicy red fruit flavors. I also picked up on some tobacco and a little herbal note on the back. It had a really enjoyable finish with smooth tannins. This wine is in its prime and should be drunk now. This would of course go well with white meats, but is perfect for traditional Spanish dishes like tapas or pringas or Mexican enchiladas or burritos. For $17, this is a good buy.

Montecillo White Rioja 2006

A white Rioja? Curiosity got the best of me. This is a dry white wine that has some subtle pear and nut aromas along with a small amount of apple flavor and dandelions. For $5 I had to try it. Sometimes it is better to be curious and never know than find out the real deal. This is one of those times. Pass on this white Rioja.

Allende Rioja 2004

The other night we enjoyed a bottle of the Allende Rioja 2004 produced by Finca Allende from the village of Briones in Spain. Charles Metcalf calls this region the "undiscovered jewel of Rioja." The Rioja is made with 100% tempranillo grapes. Upon opening, the dark inky purple color was the first thing that caught my attention. Then a wonderful aroma of cherries, plums and floral notes along with some spices. However, the tastes were more red fruit with an abundance of strawberries and cranberries. There are subtle tannins and some acidity that is well integrated. The flavors never ended. Towards the end of the bottle, we realized this was an unfiltered wine. It does not state this on the label. There was a small amount of sediment but was certainly acceptable. They age this wine in both new and used french oak barrels for 13 months before bottling. The Wine Advocate rates it 92 points, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast both rate it 90 points. I side with the Jay Miller and his 92. This is one of the best Rioja's I have drank. For $22, this is a must buy. At $27, it is still a buy. Very nice wine.

Tinto Figuero 4 2006

The Tinto Figuero 4 wine was produced by Vinedos y Bodegas Garcia Figuero, a small family owned and operated winery that was started in 2001 in the Ribera del Duero region of Spain. The Tinto Figuero is made from 100% tempranillo grapes harvested from 10-20 year old vines and then aged in new oak barrels (85% American 15% French oak) for only 4 months, hence the 4. It has a nice dark red color with strawberry and cherry aromas but more of a blackberry taste. It had a relatively long finish to it with smooth tannins. My wife's sister and brother-in-law in Switzerland served this with a fondue chinoise (thinly sliced beef, pork and veal dipped into a hot broth to cook) and it was the perfect pairing. The Wine Advocate gave this wine an 88 point rating. I would agree with this rating. It retails for $20. According to Steve Kreps, Jr. from Quintessential Wines (see ad in side bar), the Tinto Figuero 15 is outstanding. If I can't find it locally, I will call Mr. Kreps and have it shipped. Give these wines a try.

Martin Codax Albarino 2007

The Bodegas Martin Codax Winery is located in the rolling hill of the Rias Baixas region on the very northern border of Spain. The 2007 Albarino is a white wine made from 100% albarino grapes. This medium bodied wine has a yellowish green color with a floral aroma along with citrus and herbs. On the palate, I picked up some peaches, pear and mellons with the bite of a granny smith apple on the back. This reminds you a little of a Viognier, as well as having the acidity of a Riesling. Very nice wine to combine with an appetizer, a salad, seafood or even a white meat. Retails for about $10-12. Excellent value wine. Wine Enthusiast gave this a 90 point rating.

Vizcarra Roble Senda del Oro 2006

The 2006 Senda del Oro is made from 100% tempranillo (Tinto Fino) grapes that are grown in the Ribera del Duero region of north-central Spain. This wine is reddish purple in color and has a smokey blueberry and blackberry nose. Don't let the oak aromas scare you as it is well structured with some soft tannins and earthy dark berry flavors that leads to a very nice wine. It has been aged in French and American oak barrels for 7 months. LET THIS WINE OPEN UP!!! The 2006 Vizcarra has a medium finish on the palate. Can be enjoyed now but I would hold this wine for 2-4 more years. This is a small winery founded in 1991 with only 3,000 cases of the 2006 Senda del Oro bottled. We enjoyed a bottle while grilling flank steaks with a spicy mint chimichurri sauce. The 2006 Vizcarra Roble Senda del Oro received a 90 point rating from Jay Miller (Wine Advocate) and an 88 from Steve Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. Retails for $20.

Bodegas Ondarre Rioja Reserve 2004

While in Europe, I had the good fortune of buying the 2004 Ondarre Rioja Reserve from Viana, Spain. This historic town, which is the burial spot of Lord Cesar Borgia, son of Pope Alexander VI, is located in the heart of the Rioja region. The Ondarre vineyards are strongly influenced by the hot, dry Mediterranean climate. This medium-bodied reserve is a mix of 75% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha and 15% Mazeulo with incredible aromas of fresh-picked blackberries and raspberries along with a handful of spices. On the palate were lush raspberries and cranberries combined with some vanilla. The acidity and tannins were perfect and the flavors never ended. It is aged in French and American oak for 16 months before bottling. This is an exceptional wine, and Rioja's are great food wines! I served it at a dinner in Switzerland with a spice rubbed wood-fired chicken and grilled vegetables and it was the perfect match for the rub. Retails for 13 SwissFrancs. Overall, 2004 was a fantastic vintage for Riojas. It could even be held for another 5 years. I will be on the search for the Ondarre wines in the States.  UPDATE:  Just found this vintage in CT on April 14, 2011.  Wine Spectator has now rated this a 91 point wine and included it in the Top; 100 Wines of 2010.  It was the highest rated Rioja under $15.  This is a must buy!!.

Marques de Caceres Rioja Crianza 2003

There are three categories of red Rioja's exported from Spain. Crianza wines are exported the most. These are easy drinking, every-day wines that are aged for at least 1 year in the barrels and 1 year in the bottle. Basically, Crianza wines are ready for consumption on release. Next are the Reserva wines. These are aged for at least 1 year in the barrels and two years in the bottle and sometimes longer. Reservas are at their best between 5 and 7 years after the vintage date on the label. Finally, the Gran Reservas. These are aged for at least 2 years in the barrels and 3 years in the bottle. Gran Reservas are best between 10 and 15 years old.

This 2003 Marques de Caceres is a Crianza Rioja that is made from 85% tempranillo and the the remaining 15% from a mix of garnacha and graciano. It has a nice aroma of cherries and blackberries along with our fresh garden herbs. On the palate, I tasted strawberries, cranberries and a hint of cinnamon. The Crianza had subtle tannins but was disappointed in the finish. There was some acidity and oak but well structured and easy drinking. We served this with a pork chop that had been marinated in a Mexican salsa and then grilled over a wood fire. If you are looking for a change, try a Rioja. Retails for about $15. I will buy more of this wine.

Ruberte Tresor 2007

This Spanish wine from Bodegas Ruberte is made from old vine garnacha and has a ripe berry nose along with a little peppery/spice. The taste is very fruity and sweet, like cotton candy. Garnacha is typically blended, which is what they should have done with this wine. The taste got worse by the minute instead of better. This is a BIG PASS!!!! Retails for about $9.00.

Baron De Magana 2004

The 2004 Baron De Magana is a red wine from northern Spain that is a blend of 40% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 20% tempranillo. It has a dark sherry red color with aromas of flowers and roasted coffee beans according to the vintner. I also picked up some smokey toast and currants. My first tastes were cherrys and blackberries, followed up with some spicy currants. The climate in this region makes for richer, fuller wines with sweeter and more polished tannins. Open this wine early as it really needs to open up. An interesting wine that I will try again. I think this wine could be stored away for another 5 years and it will be an outstanding wine. The 2004 Baron De Magana retails for about $17. The Wine Advocate rated this a 90.

Bodegas San Martin Navarra Isolda 2007

This is a medium-bodied Spanish red wine made up of Tempranillo, Granacha, Merlot and Cabernet. It is VERY fruit forward of red berries and jam. However, there is no finish to it. Was like drinking Kool-Aid. Was OK but I would not run out and buy it again. Retails for about $7.